5 Steps To Dye Your Brows At Home, From An Expert Who Tints Them To Perfection
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December 12, 2020 — 14:50 PM
I’ll admit, I was timid sitting in the chair of my first eyebrow tinting appointment. Although, the sheer ease of it all (along with the first glance at my newly thickened eyebrows) had me hooked. Waking up to full, lush brows without a stitch of makeup? Count me in. Now a seasoned brow tint devotee, I’ll rave about it to any sparse-browed somebody looking for a bit more oomph.
It’s by and large a simple, painless process—oftentimes just 10 minutes from start to finish. But for those days when you feel like you don’t have a second to breathe, let alone reach out to a professional to touch up those arches, you might ponder any DIY opportunities. Dyeing your brows comfortably on the couch carries a certain allure, no?
Here’s the thing: Yes, you can dye your eyebrows at home in a pinch—just make sure you have the process down to a T. Below, our step-by-step guide to tint like the pros:
Arguably the most important part of the process. You can find plenty of brow tint kits on the market, which should come with the actual dye pigment and developer to form your tint. Beard dye is also an increasingly popular choice, as the product is already formulated safe to use on the face—as opposed to hair dye, which is decidedly not. (Here’s one you can find on Amazon.) Although, brow expert Joey Healy notes, you’ll want to read up on the ingredients: He recommends searching for vegetable-based dyes, especially if you have more sensitive skin.
Of course, do a patch test before painting it on your brows—either on the inside of your wrist or behind your ear—just to make sure you won’t face an intense reaction.
How to find the right shade.
One of the reasons why seeing a professional is best: They’ll know exactly how to shade-match your brows without tinting them too rich. If you’re doing a bit of guess-and-test, though, Healy recommends erring on the side of lighter. “So, if your goal is to have dark brown brows, maybe buy a medium-brown. If your goal is just to do a medium brown, do a light-brown,” he notes. Remember: You can always pile it on for longer, but it’s much more difficult to remedy a butchered dye-job. Also mind the specific package’s timing: “You don’t want to buy something that’s going to process too quickly and make the hairs too dark,” Healy says.
If you do dye them too dark, though, there are some effective to-do’s to salvage those brows (more later!).
Before getting started, Healy recommends etching an oily border around the brow, “so it doesn’t stain the skin where you don’t want to.” Most dyes aren’t oil-soluble, so mapping out those areas you want to keep clear is a sound idea. Again, professionals have mastered this skill (it’s harder than it looks!), so it may take a bit of practice to outline your brows perfectly. For a clean, petrolatum-free border, try the Skin Food Lip Butter from Weleda; it has a similar jelly consistency and texture to most traditional balms.
Here comes the fun part: Paint the dye onto your stenciled brow. You don’t have to be too meticulous about it, says Healy, as he recommends applying it generally to the entire brow bone. (Tip: You can run a spoolie through your brows to get rid of any clumps.) “Then I’ll use a damp [cotton swab] to outline the ideal brow shape,” he says.
How do you know where to stop?
Part of the appeal with brow tinting is that those wispy, vellus hairs that were once invisible finally get their chance to shine through. But how do you know when enough is enough? You don’t want to accidentally dye your forehead, here. “Think of it like you’re filling in your brows,” Healy explains. “This is where you should put the dye, and that will indicate how high up you are.” When you use a cotton swab to trace around the brow bone, you’ll be able to clean up any errant bits that may reach too high up.
Time it for 3 minutes, then wipe it off.
“Start slow; it’s better to put the dye on in multiple rounds then do it too long at once,” says Healy. He recommends leaving on the dye for three minutes to start (this may vary depending on the specific dye you’re using, so make sure to read the packaging instructions, too). After those minutes are up, grab a wet cotton pad and wipe off the pigment against the direction of hair growth to really lift the product out of those hairs.
Essentially, rinse and repeat: If you’re hoping for a darker tint, paint it on again for another three minutes. Go slow! There’s nothing wrong with multiple rounds.
Healy says you can also dye certain sections of the brow longer than others, if you find it necessary. “Often the very fronts and the very ends need more processing time,” he says. “Maybe you do the entire brow for a few minutes, and then if you’re happy with how the middle looks, just do the front and the end and let it process for some more time.” Just make sure all of the dye comes off when you’re done, as any lingering pigment can continue to dye the hairs.
Uh oh, I’ve dyed them too dark. What now?
If you’ve stuffed up the dye, don’t sweat it (or, uh, maybe do): “Do the things you’re not supposed to do [right after a brow tint],” says Healy, which include perspiring or showering in the first 12 hours. You can also wash them with a bit of shampoo and conditioner—just don’t scrub too hard, as you don’t want to pluck any precious brow hairs.
To disguise the dye-job in the meantime, Healy says you can apply a tinted brow gel in a softer color (like this blonder shade) to make them appear a bit lighter. Overall, though, don’t try too hard to speed up the fade, as an at-home tint doesn’t last as long as a professional dye (sigh). “They usually lighten up in about two days anyway,” he adds.
Dyeing your own eyebrows is largely a painless process—slow and steady is the general theme, and any mess-ups will probably fade in a few days, anyway. Will you have the same results as a salon-grade tint? Probably not. But it’ll do when you don’t have the time to flock to an appointment, or just feel a sudden urge to DIY.
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